A Trip to Badrinath in 1994. From the July 9, 1998 Newsletter
It
is only
after a series of many towns of Chamoli, Pirahi, Pipalkoti, Helang,
Joshimath, you
encounter Vishnu Prayag, where Alaknanda meets her first tributary
called Dhauliganga.
The
very white complexion of the two streams is noticeable to the bare
eyes.
It is only after Govindghat, Pandukeshwar, and Hanuman Chatti, where
Hanuman, the ultimate 11th Rudra, guards the house of Vishnu, you reach
Devadarshani. It is a remarkable trough of
hills, where Badri Vishal beacons all the tired souls. By the time we
reached on that cold night at the height of 11,000 feet, it was already
6.30 PM. It was getting dark rapidly.
After putting our belongings at Shri Shri Mohanananda Sewa Samiti
cottage, we rushed to
the shrine. It ! is holy and inviting. The Arati was on and after it
was over, we were asked
to
go to the sanctum door to receive the teerth (sacred water) and
the holy leaves of Tualsi
plant. Lord Vishnu was now being put to sleep. God is not a
different one, but very much like us, is the constant theme of Hindu
worship. He must wake up, have breakfast, luncheon, afternoon siesta,
hold evening court, have dinner and, finally, be put to sleep. We went
around the shrine.
The
head priest asked us to come the next morning at 5.30 a.m. After a
meal, we retired to sleep early. The next morning, I got up with the
sounds of 'Suprabhatam'
coming from the shrine. I freshened up and rushed to the shrine alone
as all
others were still groggy. I went in from the side door and was seated
by the priest with an
older mahatma, who was there sitting on the wooden chests facing the
deity. Today I think
that was the most memorable and magical meeting with a real holy
personality. Could it be
that he was Hanuman himself? He was old, lean and thin with a stubble
of a beard and moustache. He was wearing simple hand washed c! lothes,
and was with a blanket, a little staff, and a red pouch with the rosary
for reciting the name of Ram. He was constantly uttering the
name of Ram. Soon we were joined by Sheelja and later on by the other
members of the
family, who sat to the right of this mahatma on the wooden chests.
And, when they were asked to leave, the mahatma forbade the head
priest. Soon the royal treatment of Lord
Vishnu began with familiar mantras from Vishnusahastranama and
Purusha-suktam. God was woken up,
bathed, offered the madhuparka, sandal paste, dresses, the
ornaments, and so forth. While this was going on, all! the things,
such as the water, Tulasi leaves, the madhuparka etc.,
were brought to this mahatma and he gave these to others. Since I was
to his left, he gave these to me
before anybody else. This madhuparka was nectar like, and I
had not till then, and have not since then tasted such a soothing,
healing, and sublime teerth. But while he was pouring it to
others, I noticed it to be of milk complexion. Thinking that it was a
different
thing, I touched the mahatma and signaled him to give that to me
again. He very kindly gave the
madhuparka, the second time, and I was amazed to se! e that it
was colorless. I did not
have much time to question the gravity of this experience. Soon the
Yajurveda chanting began and sandal paste was brought in to the
mahatma. He very gently placed it on my
palm and I then gave that to Santosh etc. I was also chanting Ram
Ram. All the crowns etc. were placed on the deity. Santosh was
worried about time and wanting to leave, this
mahatma signaled by his fingers that there were 11 minutes more before
the ceremony was
going to end. Soon the end came. When I headed for the door, he
pulled me over and pointed towards the threshol! d of the sanctum door
to bow and receive the final blessings of Tulasi leaves etc. It was at
this time when I offered to give him something, he refused. And when I
bent to touch his feet, he held me halfway. I went up to the sanctum
door and when turned to
have a last look of this divine soul, I did not see him anywhere. It
was at this point, it
dawned on me, that he was Hanuman himself, that the change of color of
the teerth from
water to milk was a confirmation of what Dada and Uma Datt Shukla had
witnessed in the company of Baba Neem Karauli Maharaj, and that the
water of the river Ganges was nothing but
milk and nectar. Others may take it to be my hallucination, but how
can I deny the vividness of it. Soon afterwards we headed back to
Hardwar, only to be wonderfully fed at Joshimath by the family of Shyamu
Bhaiyya, the brother of Piyush Khattri.
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